Smarter Tools 2000iQ Generator

Or for $100 less get a 2500 at Harbour freight, The're all made in china.

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/e...ator-61169-html.html

Those are rated at a much higher decibel - I don't want my camping neighbors hating on me LOL 

I bought one of these from Costco in May, we use it on our pontoon boat when we camp on it. Runs great, sips fuel, quiet too.

Every time I go into Costco I feel the urge to buy one of these.  Kind of hard to justify since I have a built in.  Can't explain it, just want one.....

For only $600, out might be worth getting one, even if you do already have an on-board gen.  Might be a lot quieter!

I have owned two of these since May 2014 and have used them several times boondocking.  On a recent trip in early September, it was 19 degrees one morning at 7800 ft altitude, and the generator started with 3 pulls and ran just as it should.  I bought 2 because I wanted to be able to run the A/C boondocking if I want to, and could not mount a larger 4000W generator that I had when I bought my 2014 2385 on this TT's rear bumper (too wimpy a bumper).  The two cost me less than one Honda or Yamaha with the same specs.  With a little modification to raise the shelf a couple of inches, both generators fit in the front storage compartment on the right side of my TT and they are light enough for me to lift and stow without too much trouble.  I did notice less power at this altitude; one would run the microwave, but it was pretty close to max load, whereas at lower altitude, one runs the microwave just fine.  As an aside, I am careful to avoid ethanol gas for them and all of the rest of my small engine equipment, as it tends to collect water more than non-ethanol gasoline.  So far, so good.

 

Brian

  and concur, these little 80cc motors do tend to struggle at an altitude greater than 6,000 feet. When I first tried mine, it had about 1/2 hour's use on it and probably hadn't properly broken in yet. At 6500' running the micro, it bogged down quite a bit and sometimes would recover, sometimes not. I just take both along now and they work much better in tandem. For approximately $1330.00 which includes tax, to have 3100 watts of relatively quiet genny power is an unbeatable price.

Teeheehee.......glad to be of service. 

 

Can I talk you into two and a parallel cable too? 

Awww man, now theres peer pressure (can I use that?).....

2 more mods to the 2000iQ:

 

1)  A magnetic dipstick (sale on eBay or Amazon) to help collect the little metal shavings in the oil.

2)  A oil drain plug - helps keep oil changes cleaner (also on eBay)

 

Mo money Mo money!!

 

WoodGlue

Oops, I almost forgot a few other modifications/info that you'll need!

 

1)  Generator Hour Meter Link  (easy mod to make, just wrap the wire around the spark plug wire and secure it well) 

2)  A nice cover  (Yamaha 2000 covers fit perfectly!)

3)  Link for the dipstick and magnetic plug

4)  A few extra Spark Plugs (these are the correct ones)

I also broke my generator in, for 20 hours (not all at once) and then I changed the oil (Yamalube)

 

Don't let the burning credit card scorch yer buttocks!

 

WoodGlue

Lauren, good find on the cover. Do you have one and can verify how well it fits? $44.49 seems a bit steep especially when one needs to buy two of them.

Yes Randy, the cover is excellent.  I tried an off brand cover but it was a mess, no handle to carry the darn thing like the Yamaha cover has!  It fits like a glove and I wouldn't be without one.

 

I think I bought mine through eBay, let me look for the price, as I think I only paid $32,00/ea.

 

$36.99 Free Shipping from eBay:

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Ge...ipping-/111469812729?

 

WoodGlue

I just did a bit of shopping around and found these covers for a better price than Amazon. $38.50 each and even though there's a modest $6.95 shipping charge, they don't charge tax here in Nevada like Amazon does. I went ahead and ordered two.

 

http://www.yamahagenerators.co...-Covers-p/covers.htm

 

James........are ya paying attention? 

Darn, wish I'd seen that first before ordering. I always forget to check e-bay. I have this age old stigma firmly planted in my cranium that it's an internet garage sale of sorts and forget that there are a lot of legitimate vendors doing business there. Oh well, mistake only cost 10 bucks.

Don't worry Randy.  I also have the whole "Internet Junk Sale" mentality when it comes to eBay too!

 

WoodGlue

Interesting observations.

 

When I first got to Doheny, the genny ran the A/C and the Microwave (obviously not at the same time)

 

Now that I'm powering my laptop, DirecTV box, and the 12v Winegard G2 carryout, I'm not able to run the A/C or microwave.  Seems like the extra junk (the laptop, etc) pushed the genny over it's capacity or capabilities.

 

Don't get me wrong, it's still able to power up and charge the 2 AGM batteries I have etc, but I'm kinda disappointed to tell you the truth.

 

WoodGlue

Don't be disappointed.  Just get another and a parallel cable. Running the AC is pushing the extreme limitations of these gens. Even though you may get the AC to fire up, if you saw the accompanying voltage drop, you'd be realizing that even though it runs, who knows what kind of electrical component damage could result. I know another gen and cable will set you back approximately $700.00, you'll be sittin there with 3100 watts of power and should be able to run pretty much everything.

How do you like them genny run times there at the park? :-(

  

 

Woodglue:

 

When you ran the air conditioner, did you have to throw all breakers other than the main and air conditioner circuits?

No Doug,

 

I just plugged in and started up.  That's a good idea though, to throw all the breakers except for the A/C if I really needed A/C or the microwave.

 

When using the generator for the air conditioner:

FIRST, Turn your fridge from Automatic to LP.   You're camping off circuit, but IF you don't do this, when the generator starts, it will think it's plugged into the wall socket and switch back to AC (from the generator) That's 3 amps of relief the generator doesn't have to provide.

 

SECOND throw the blue breakers shown below.

   MAIN  -                            30 amps  (This has to stay on)

1 GENERAL PURPOSE         15 amps   (these are your receptacles. Leave them on so your laptop will have power from the generator, unless you are running it from 12 volts. It doesn't take that much.  At last resort, turn these off.)

2 AIR CONDITIONER             20 amps  (Leave on.)

3 MICROWAVE                 15 amps  

4 CONVERTER                     15 amps  (this is taking your 'onboard battery charger' out of the circuit.  For the time you have this switched, you are running just on batteries and the converter charger isn't replacing amps in your batteries.  Once the AC has been shut off, if you reactivate this breaker, the generator will then start charging your batteries. 

5 WATER HEATER (electric)   15 amps (this is probably not on, but it's a sure killer if it is.  Sucks lots of generator amps.)

 

 

Woodglue, Doug's suggestions are good ones.  I bought a second 2000iQ because (1) it gives me redundancy, (2) 2 are needed to run my A/C especially when I boondock at higher altitude, (3) 2 are needed to run my microwave above 6000-7000 ft, and (4) if nothing else, it's a $600 1 gal gas can!

 

Brian

Good point, Brian.   Woodglue would only need one for most 120 volt times, but if it comes to needing the air conditioner, plug in both.

I'm home now and I'm going to try Doug's trick before I take the trailer back to storage!  I have a feeling it will work!!

 

Brian, I'm going to consider your and Randy's suggestion about perhaps buying a secondary unit.  I'm all about redundancy - it's a good  thing to practice!

 

WoodGlue

WoodGlue, it's worked out well for me, even though I hated to shell out another $600.  However, I didn't have much choice because it's too difficult to handle/carry a 3000-4000W single generator, which is more than I need most of the time (except for A/C and high-altitude microwave running).

 

Brian

OK, thanks to all of my "Friends" here on LOA helping me spend my money, I just came home from Costco with one of these!!   And I have a surprising report to make.  It runs my 13.5 BTU A/C in my driveway, about 2600' elevation!!!  Didn't even struggle.  I'm sure the result will be different at higher altitudes, but for now I'm happily surprised....

Randy, I'm guessing the EF2000is cover is the right one???

 

Never mind, figured it out.......

Erick, I just received my covers Friday. Installed them Saturday and they are a real tight fit. But they do fit and fit well once you've worked them down over the Gen.

BigE, that's great that only one 2000iQ will run your A/C at 2600'!  However, as you point out, altitude will impact it.  While the specifics depend on engine type (2 cycle vs 4 cycle) and carburated vs fuel injected, a rough figure is about 3% power loss per 1000 ft elevation from sea level.  It isn't exactly linear at lower altitudes, but when you get up to 6000-7000 ft, it is very noticeable.  For example, my 2000iQ runs my 900W microwave (that's output in the microwave; the input power is actually 1200W) just great at home at 2300'.  At 7000', where the generator output loss would be around 21% or a steady-state output of about 1400W, it will run the microwave but not at its full rating, as indicated by the longer cooking time.  I didn't have time to hook up and parallel my second 2000iQ the last trip, but will test it next time.

 

Brian

I use 87 from the gas station.  No sense of using 89 or 92

 

Just regular old gas will work just fine!

 

WoodGlue

I just read the owners manual today, they state 10% or less ethanol......

The problem with using ethanol enriched fuel in small engines is the fuel does not cycle through like it does in a motor vehicle. That fuel can sit in any small engine for months, and some are designed with alcohol proof hoses and tubing and some are not. The biggest problem with the ethanol enriched fuel is phase separation, where the alcohol breaks down and attracts water vapor and moisture, and you end up with a slug of water on the bottom of the tank, carburetor, fuel lines, etc., and pure gas sitting on top of that. On any small engine you're better off using non-ethanol fuel at 87 octane -- or -- using an enzyme-type fuel conditioner that prevents the phase separation. The non-ethanol fuel costs more, but by the time you add the enzyme you're at about the same cost. There are a lot of fuel stabilizers on the market, and most do not prevent phase separation. The two most popular that do are Stabil Marine Formula (blue/green color, not the red), or Starbrite. You can find them at Walmart, most every marine or boating store, and a lot of the auto parts stores. Other than these two you need to read the label carefully to verify that it does stabilize and prevent separation. I use both of these treatments in every small gas engine around the house--lawn mowers, snow blowers, weed trimmers, my Gator UTV, small Smart Tools generator, my big Generac house generator, chainsaw, Mercury and Yamaha outboard motor--everything other than the cars. Mid or premium grade fuel will not help, though a few distributors supply ethanol free only in 90 or 93 octane. The higher octane actually has less energy but does prevent detonation (knocking). 

Whoops!  Did I give out bad information??

I run my Honda on premium, always have even though the manual says you can use 87. Its only a gallon and if were going on a long trip and towing the Jeep I'll fill it with the same and siphon gas to fill the genny if needed. Run premium in the motorcycles too.

I run non ethanol regular fuel & treat w starbright as needed. I also try not to carry fuel over in the genny for extended periods (more then 3-4months) & always run the carb dry.

No, not bad info. My manual says the same thing, so the fuel lines are designed to use ethanol fuel. These generators don't use a lot of fuel, so there is a good chance that without an additive you can have the separation--or use 100% gas. Cars go thru a tank in a week, that fuel may be in a generator for months. The only benefit for using a higher octane fuel than an engine is designed for is you're donating extra profit to the refiner/distributor/dealer. Every manual for every motor has the designated fuel octane requirements listed and there is absolutely nothing to be gained from exceeding that.

Log on to this web site listed below to find your state listed at the bottom of the page.  

 

It will list suppliers of non-ethanol fuel.  

 

Sometimes suppliers quit handling non-ethanol so call ahead.

 

http://pure-gas.org/

There is a lot of misunderstanding and misinformation when it comes to fuel in general, and octane and grades in particular. Some of this confusion is caused by the names they are given: Mid-grade, and premium or High test. The truth is far different. Take four equal measures of the four commonly available gasolines: 100% gas 87 octane regular; 90/10 ethanol enriched 87 octane regular; 90/10 ethanol enriched 89/90 octane mid-grade; and 90/10 ethanol enriched 93 octane premium. (Different brands may have slightly different octane ratings, but they are similar).

If you measured the energy available in the four equal measures you would find that the 100% pure gas has the most energy. After that, the fuel in each grade has less energy because the ethanol additive is replacing the gasoline, and is actually acting as  a filler with reduced energy. On to the mid-grade: high performance engines have higher compression in an attempt to produce more power in a smaller space, and a result the fuel will detonate prematurely because of the compression. The mid-grade fuel is actually degraded with a retarder to control that early detonation. The octane goes up, power goes down, and the gas companies charge more than double what that additive actually costs to give you less power. With the premium, it more than doubles the amount of additive. Again, even less energy for even more money.

Those vehicles that have a mid-grade or premium fuel requirement have to run on that fuel or detonation, commonly called pinging or knock, will result. Bad for the engine. So, running higher than needed octane gives you less energy for more money. For the best power and reduced fuel system problems use 100% gas. Here in the east I find that the break-even price point for the tradeoff between increased mileage with 100% gas and reduced mileage with ethanol enriched regular is .25-.28/gallon. I use stabilizer in the gas cans for small engines regardless of the fuel type.  

Do a little research and you'll come to the same conclusion.

I completely agree -- use 87 octane non-ethanol fuel, run the carburator dry when the generator isn't going to be used for awhile and put in fuel stabilizer.  There is nothing to be gained with higher octane, but there is something to lose with ethanol.  It does indeed collect water over time.  The right stabilizer will help but why take the risk.  I've gotten into the habit of using non-ethanol fuel for all my small engine needs.  

 

An interesting sidelight -- I have a 2010 Polaris ATV that was actually spitting raw fuel out the tank overflow, which it is absolutely not supposed to do and which could be dangerous.  On my ATV, the fuel tank is in the worst possible spot, right behind the radiator and ahead of the engine.  A little research revealed that the vapor pressure of gasoline with 10% ethanol in it is about 10% higher than non-ethanol gas with the same octane rating and at the same temperature.  That means there will be more vapor at the same temperature with ethanol gas than with non-ethanol and therefore a higher tendency for ethanol fuel to boil/bubble.  In my case, the fuel spitting disappeared completely when I stopped using ethanol fuel.

 

Brian

For those who specifically have the Smarter Tools 2000w gen...did you have trouble starting it up?  I just tried it out for the first time (at home).  We are not high altitude, so if that could make a difference, it doesn't here...it is brand new, just arrived from Costco yesterday (they don't carry it locally, so I had to order it).  Put in the oil and new gas as directed.  Followed the directions...yes, my son was helping me and we read the directions and did each step as indicated.  After many pulls, he - a 25 yo guy - finally got it started.  I was not able to at all.  While I'm no weight-lifter, I am also not a weakling.  We let it run just a couple of minutes, turned it off, then tried to restart after about another 2 mins.  No luck - for either of us.  Will it get better over time?  Also, it was not what I would call quiet, even by gen standards.  Will it quiet down after a bit of time?

Thanks,

Lee-Ann

 

First how did you shut the unit down after the initial test run, via the shut off switch or fuel shut off switch, or both. did you turn every thing back on, is there fuel in the tank?

 

I have had the unit prior to them coming out with the current model & normally it starts with 3 or 4 pulls even when the carb is run dry.

 

Sorry iam not much help.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I agree with Cozy2. Check that everything is turned on and there's fuel in the tank. Also, when you have the choke engaged, it can sometimes flood by dumping too much gas into the combustion chamber. I remedy this by pushing the choke knob back in ever so slightly and giving it a few more pulls.

 

When it does finally start, does it first blow out some grayish smoke and then clear up as it gets up and running?

If it wasn't the choke setting then it sounds like there is something wrong with yours.  With the choke set properly mine starts in 2 or 3 pulls, as it did the first time also.  And if yours is loud that's another indication something is wrong.  It's just a little louder than a Honda, but certainly not loud....

Make sure the gas tank vent is open.

Like BigE, mine starts with just a couple pulls. It is possible that it flooded if the choke is not set properly. I had trouble once in maybe 50-60 starts, and I think I bumped the choke and flooded it. Also, it needs to be OFF the Eco setting to start it. I would call mine quiet too.

Cozy,

I pushed the "engine off" button.  I can't recall if we reset the "petcock" knob (that is the fuel switch, yes?) to off between tries, but did so when we shut it all down.

Lee-Ann

I don't use the fuel cutoff after shutdown unless I'm packing it up after the last use. I just use the off/on switch. I don't see why that would make a difference though. Is the gas fresh?

Hmmm...fuel overage may be an issue.  The owner's manual said it hold 1.1 gal.  I got 1.078 gal of gas, put it in expecting to have enough room...and overflowed a bit, without pouring in all of it.  We tried to clean it out a bit.  Maybe tomorrow I will need to get a turkey baster and drain  bit.  Will also play with the choke the way you mentioned.  Thanks for the info.  As far as grayish smoke, none.

Lee-Ann

To be honest, I have never heard what  Honda sounds like.  But I have heard gens enough at fairs and this reminds me of one of them (not quite THAT loud).  Will try emptying some gas and see if that helps.

Lee-Ann

Now you got me...I don't recall seeing that in the directions!  Will re-read the papers.

Lee-Ann

It sound alike flooding the choke may be an issue here.  How does one "unflood" the choke?  Siphon a bit out?  Thanks.

Lee-Ann

Went straight from the Bp station to the house to the gen this afternoon.  

Lee-Ann

Okay, I need to use the multi quote function next time!  Will try siphoning some gas out tomorrow, adjusting the choke, and re-reading the directions (venting the gas tank?  DOn't know about how to do that)...tomorrow.

Thanks for all you ideas,

Lee-Ann

Leemom3:

 

The first-day-lesson you'd learn in a gasoline engine class is:  

1) They need fire to run. 

2)  They need air to run.  

3)  They need gas to run.

 

Let's presume the first two are ok and go to the third.  The reason for this is something you said about filling the tank 100%.

 

Just as you can hold a liquid up in a straw if you put your finger over the end of it, you can sort of do the same thing with your engine if the tank is not vented.  The cap is acting like your finger over the top of the gas tank and holding back fuel from the carb.   See (3) above.

 

I can foresee a situation where you filled the tank to the top, attached the cap, (I'm supposing the cap has a little twist vent on it) but didn't open the air vent.   Once you opened the petcock to let gas into the carb, the vacuum held back the gas.  

 

A little of it seeped into the carb in time, and you were able to start the engine, but you may have been cranking with a practically dry carb all this time.

 

If no fuel wasn't the case, maybe too much was the situation, aka, flooded.   To keep the engine from flooding, you could try pulling the choke out, yanking ONCE, pushing the choke in and pulling a few times.   If no start, pull the choke out, yank once again, push it in, and then try again.  Even trying a 'half choke' may prove to be the trick.

Like Doug said, 1 pull with choke out, then push it in. I have had a small motor that require two pulls with the choke out but not more than that. Motors/carbs are all a little different, try one, then two pulls to see what works. I've been surprised just how easy this Yamaha motor starts and how quiet it is.

You guys have done a greatjob of identifying possible issues & solutions. I am betting on the gas cap vent not being open & or over chocking.

Normally an engine will start with the gas cap unvented, but the engine will just stall unexpectedly after running a while.   Sometimes the pressure will rebuild in the tank from the evaporating fuel and equalize things (if it's warm weather) and the engine will start again, and run for a while, before stalling again unexpectedly. 

 

It can cause a silly feeling when one then discovers and opens the air vent on the gas cap and the problem is solved.  I speak from experience, and experience, and experience...LOL. 

 

Particularly, a visual clue can be seen if one is operating an outboard motor that unexpectedly stalls when under way.  The clue to the unvented tank's cap will be that the gas hose's priming bulb will be collapsed because air is unable to replace the fuel burned from the tank and the soft rubber priming bulb collapses, and the engine starves for gas.

 

Let's hope Lee-Ann's problem is something this simple.  Those little Yamaha engines typically start very easily.  I can almost rely on mine starting on the first pull.

Contact a local friend or neighbor who may be more savvy on small engines (atv, motorcycles, etc) and have them try to start it.  If they have a problem with it you'll know it's the generator and not you.  If they are successful they can tell you What you need to do differently.  As a long-time small engine mechanic I can tell you that if a properly tuned engine does not start in 2-3 pulls there is usually a problem with the engine, provided you are correctly following the starting procedures.  It is difficult to give you the correct answer to your concern via email.  I once had a customer call me on the phone in his kitchen.  He asked me to listen to his mower running to tell him what was wrong.  He promptly dropped the phone, went into his garage, dragged the mower into his kitchen, started it, and placed the receiver down by the mower.  My diagnosis, HE HAD A PROBLEM!

The Smarter Tools 2000IQ doesn't have a vent or a cap vent at all.  The way I "unflooded" my unit was to:

 

1)  Let it sit for a few hours (if you aren't in a hurry to use it)

 

or

 

2)  Turn the fuel source to "off" , also set the generator to "off" (as in on/off) and just pull the string about 10 times.  then, wait a minute or two, turn the fuel switch to on and then turn the generator to "on" and pull the choke out about 1/2 way and give it a big, honking pull.  Also, make sure you have the "eco" mode turned off when you're trying to start it.  After you get it started and warmed up a little, then put it into eco mode.

 

If you want a great gas can that will stop automatically when your tank is full, try this!  It's the greatest thing since sliced bread:  There should be a video on the page that demonstrates how easy it is to simply, tip and let 'er rip and it will turn itself off!

 

Gas Can

 

Hope this helps,

 

WoodGlue

I would be very curious to hear your opinions of the 2015.5 2295 trailer.  I am thinking about one of those, but wondering if my F-150 EcoBoost would be able to handle the additional weight.  My 1881 is GVW at 5200, the 2295 is 6000.  But the extra length might be a challenge.  Hope you'll let me know.

 

I REALLY don't want the outside cooking area and would like to have them eliminate that and make it a storage area for some folding chairs.  But i LOVE the interior floor plan with the full bathroom in the rear.  Our 1881 has that now, and it is wonderful!

 

I'll be watching for your delivery and assessment.  BTW, who are you buying it from?  Which dealer?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Oh thanks, Lauren.  The cap on my 2400 that has no movable vent, but rather just vents automatically.  The cap on my 2000 has a movable vent. 

 

Sorry the 2000i does have the manual vented cap, made the assumption the 2000iq did also.

Hi All,

What a great bunch of folks here!  When it is daylight today, I will try the suggestions.  Yes, I am hoping it is a simple stupid mistake on my part...too much gas!  If you've read other posts in this community, you know I will be back to tell you my results.

The gas can...actually, I saw that recommendation here on this or another thread.  Right before the Bp station my husband and I went to Pep Boys to look for that brand, but no luck, so we had to use one of our old leaky, drippy gas cans.  Even  my husband was impressed with the info on the Amazon page.  Looks like you folks have found another way to spend  our money.  Thanks!

Lee-Ann

Spend your money for you Lee-Ann?  

 

It's easy for us to do. We didn't feel a thing, because.......

 

We are professionals!   

Hello fellow Lancers. Has anyone tried to parallel the Smarter tools gen with a Honda?

Happy camping nm1oqrz

Wow, I sure wouldn't recommend it - I believe you would surely fry the circuit boards in both generators.  Unlikely that the circuit designs are compatible.

Gosh, I wouldn't try that either, QRZ.    The circuitry in like-brand connected generators probably phases both of their sine-waves into sync.   

 

Think of how your appliances would react to some alien, multi-phased voltage being transmitted to them.  

So here's where we are...

 

1. I turkey basted out about 1/4 of the tank of gas before restarting to assure I wouldn't be overfull.

2. Played with the choke as directed here.

3. My husband tried starting the gen as I read him the directions (didn't want to miss a step!).

4. We pulled off the side panel to check if there was a spark plug in the gen (there was).

 

And nothing happened.  Just a little blub, blub, blub.

 

Completely emptied the gas tank (managed to get it the gas backinto our vehicle), packed up the gen and returned it to the closest Costco.  You folks are right: Costco has a very good return policy.  I had paid with MC (which they do not accept in stores).  They gave me cash back for the full price, including the shipping.

 

Looks like I will be saving money on not buying the cool spill-less gas can.  Will be waiting to see how the energy needs and use go in the TC.  I have some thoughts, not sure if any of them are viable (figure out where/how to put in an extra battery?  See if we can change out the 5 gal propane tank for a larger one?  May consider solar, either installed or portable? May see if an inverter - with the extra battery - is possible or necessary?).

 

Yes, I do tend to jump into the deep end, sometimes without looking.  The gen was a great idea, but it wouldn't start for us.  A sign, perhaps, that I should be trying different options?  Who knows, but thanks for all the great suggestions.  

 

Lee-Ann

Sorry it didn't work out for you Lee Ann, I couldn't be more pleased with mine.  Maybe you just got a bad one, it happens.  Don't care to try a different one??

Actually, I am pretty philosophical about it.  We don't have a spill-less gas can.  Right  now, I smell a bit like a gas station.  I can taste the fumes.  I had wondered how and where to carry the gen (the 825 is very tight, not much room for one except maybe one specific compartment.  And I worried about the smell in the truck).  I do want to find a way to power up the AC and micro when off the grid, since we have those luxuries.  That is why I am considering alternatives.  But I am okay with this.  That, plus neither my husband nor I wants to have to do the pull cord or lift the gen.

We're good with it.  I tried and am happy I can say I tried it out without eliminating the option.

Lee-Ann

And I forgot the most important lesson my husband and I learned...if we ever want to exceed the bank's limit on ATM withdrawals in a 24 hour period, just use a credit card to order from Costco online - of a large purchase - and return the item to Costco.  Cash back, no charge!

Lee-Ann

 

No need to get in a hurry with a generator choice.  We just purchased Two Honda eu2000is.  So far they start each time on the first pull.  

Lee-Ann:   Somewhere in here you were pondering about running the air conditioner using the camper's batteries.   I didn't notice if anyone answered you.  Running the A/C with the camper batteries is just not going to happen.   Sure, the possibility is there, but you'd only run it for a few minutes before they were drained.  

 

As for running a microwave, the camper batteries will do that better, but still it's only for a small amount of usage, such as heating up something.  Cooking a whole dish would probably be out of the question. 

 

 

  We run our microwave off our inverter but it is for very short periods.  Longest we have done it was to nuke a baked potato, about 7 minutes I think....

Lets'say the microwave use 1200watts, on 120volt is 10 amp, on 12watts, it's 100 amp . If you use the microwave for 10 min, this will use 16 amp/hour plus the loss of the inverter. In 30 minutes , the battery will be dead.

Thanks for the numbers, BMJ.   An air conditioner draws at least as much amperage, if not more. 

 

We get the same end result.  A short life of comfort, either cooking or cooling via the battery and an inverter. 

 

Thanks folks.  We'll figure it out in time.  I am happy I actually do understand the numbers!

Lee-Ann