Renogy 3000 watt inverter/charger

Interesting!

I think I have the same unit. It is very heavy. It has a large transformer that provides nice clean sine wave power.

The one thing I don't like about it is you have to turn it on to get shore power. I would prefer that was automatic.

It will run the air conditioner, but not long unless you have a huge battery bank.

Gerald,

Your LOA name suggests you have a 855s truck camper, like mine, so I’m familiar with the space under the sink.  

I recently ordered an inverter, and trying to decide where to place it.  Under the sink, or under the step up, are two likely spots close to tne batteries.

Could you provide more information regarding your install and wiring?  Pictures would also be appreciated.

Thanks

Les

@Les1 as you know there is no room under step. I was able to get my 300a fuse and battery monitor shunt down there.

I placed 2 runners front to back to get inverter above hoses and created a chase for ac and dc wiring. I ran runners side to side to mount inverter to over the trough.I removed sink drains so they could be rerouted later. I installed a 30a breaker in a custom made electrical box and fed shore power to it then to inverter. From inverter to transfer switch. The dc I ran from the junction blocks to fuse and then to the inverter on + side. On - side I ran from buss to shunt then to inverter.  It was a tight complex installation  with alot of considerations I'll post up some pics to give you some ideas.

Witch inverter did you get? I can post more pics and provide more assistance. Right now it's late and really hot in the camper. The job took me a bit and alot of trial and error but the end result is i got 115v whenever I want it. I can run most everything. It's quiet and super convenient. I myself have plumbing, electrical and automotive experience so the job was in my wheelhouse.  Any assistance hit me up.

Thx @gerald855s

That area is tight!  Did you do anything regarding ventilation, or did you figure there is enough in that space under the sink?

@Les1 I added a small 12v fan and a thermostat to vent the space. The space under stove is open to the vent below the drawers. When the camper is not in use I just leave the door cracked. I'm plugged in all the time so inverter kicks on and off when topping of batteries.  I found a matching supply grill and cut it into side of cabinet for fan intake. There is a small void between the outside of cabinet that needed to be sealed to keep from recirculating air from the compartment.

I'm looking into an inverter as well... why 3000 watts?  I was thinking the renology 2000 watts, now you have me wondering.   Thanks!

@J Greg posted:

I'm looking into an inverter as well... why 3000 watts?  I was thinking the renology 2000 watts, now you have me wondering.   Thanks!

I can't answer for anyone else, but I put 3000w in mine because it CAN run the AC, and has a bit of headroom leftover for a knicknack or two (like a desk fan, which does a good job circulating that cool air). Not for long (I "only" have 400ah of battery), but there have been times it's paid off. If I pull into a rest stop for a break and the trailer is sweltering, I can kick on the AC for some relief while I rest and get a snack. Or at a Harvest Host and I just want to run it for a bit before bed to take the edge off from the setting sun. Assuming I'm not an idiot and leave the fridge on AC, it works out great.

I never tested it or did the math but I assumed a 2000w inverter wouldn't be able to handle the AC.

When you stop and think about it, makes sense!  I guess had better review my shopping list.  Thank you (I think 🤔)

@J Greg posted:

When you stop and think about it, makes sense!  I guess had better review my shopping list.  Thank you (I think 🤔)

This and many more money spending tips are available here on LOA.

Our Aims 2k pure sine inverter has been working well. It will run the 9000 btu AC for 1-1/2 hours on 2 100 ah battleborns. Lowes had the best price with military discount.

Thanks John... we have a 15k AC, so I think we'd need larger inverter.  Front reciever hitch?  Is that for backing in or a bike rack? 

@Myl posted:

...

Assuming I'm not an idiot and leave the fridge on AC, it works out great.

...

I've been there and done that! When I set up the BMS programmed an alarm to sound at 10% SOC in of the 702 BMS. With my battery bank that would leave me with about half of the energy in my former 2x group 27 FLA bank (37A). Enough power for me to react and fix a problem.

It worked when I forgot and left the fridge on auto. It took a minute for us to figure out what the beeping was and find it was coming from the 702 as it was a new sound to both of us.

@gerald855s- Thanks for posting this thread. It's timely for me because I'm thinking about the same TC.  We like the versatility of our current inverter system which is similar to what you installed.

@J Greg the honest answer for the 3k watt inverter was the 2k and 3k were physically the same size. We never intended to run a/c off of inverter so that was not a consideration.  With the current battery bank 2 group 27 lead acid I  would probably get an hour of run time but I have that option.  When existing batteries go belly up I will go to lithium and have more available power. The 3k also will do 80amp bulk charging vs 60amp on 2k. My existing converter dosen't have the option to charge lithium also. I kept in mind also that I could expand my battery bank in the future and then I could run the a/c if I wanted.  So being they were the same size just made sense.

Guys the unit just dose an absolutely dynamite job charging the batteries.  It bulk charges quickly then slows down to eventually trickle charging the batteries. Honestly t think that's where alot of the weight of the unit comes from. Unit is 22 x 10 x 8 I believe @ 60 lbs.

@J Greg posted:

Thanks John... we have a 15k AC, so I think we'd need larger inverter.  Front reciever hitch?  Is that for backing in or a bike rack?

The hitch is mainly for bikes.  I never thought about running the AC on inverter when looking for one but on the last trip I tried it. Now I am hooked on the option .😎

@VigII posted:

I set up the BMS programmed an alarm to sound at 10% SOC

This is a great idea; I forgot I could set alarms and I really really should.

I always try to size for what if. Recently had an issue with my on board generator and considered removing generator and replacing with new Cummins Onan inverter generator or just using the space for adding like 6 more lithium batteries to the rig saving a ton of weight. Ultimately I just had to replace fuel lines and generator runs like new.  So that put the brakes on that. Looking to add more batteries but that just a future consideration.  Weight on my truck is somthing I'm leary of adding since I'm in 1 ton SRW truck.

Watch out for those Cummins Onan genneys.  Mine lasted 50 hrs

Just replaced fuel lines and did 20 hr service. She runs like new now. I do all my own work and service. Don't trust most services. If they don't think you know anything they will try to rip you off. On member said he was quoted 1800 to do what I did in a couple hours.

@gerald855s posted:

So I've had this unit installed a while. What I like. Being able to to run all of my 115v accessories in the early morning without having to start generator.  We use the 115v microwave and coffee pot usually before 10 am. Most campgrounds prohibit running of generator before 10 am so having the inverter comes in handy. If we do ever run the generator the charger portion of unit has an 80 amp bulk charging function that rapidly recharges batteries way faster than factory inverter. Cons. Size and weight. Yep it's big and heavy but lithium batteries will offset most of the weight. Secondly finding room for it. I was able to reclaim space underneath the sink to fit it into. Overall I love having 115v available all the time and rarely need to run the generator due to our solar system and our trucks 300 amp charging system.

Did you link to the correct unit? Amazon description doesn't indicate a charge function on this one.

Sequoia454 that is just a straight inverter the inverter charger pictured below is almost 700.00 and about 60 lbs.

Yes, I am aware of that, I have the 2000 watt version. Your initial post shows, and links to, the straight inverter, not the inverter charger that you installed.

Go back and check it out.

I'm interested in changing my current inverter over to something like the one that you used. Not sure yet if I'll stay with another Renogy unit or look into something different. I will say that my current Renogy inverter has served us well, just looking for something with a built in charger. I should have gone that route in the first place.

Nice to see your report on the Renogy unit, thanks.

Sequoia 454 not sure where that came from. I didn't include it in my post.

@gerald855s posted:

Sequoia 454 not sure where that came from. I didn't include it in my post.

That's odd, now I'm curious how that happened.

In any event, thanks for the nice review and writeup, it has me thinking about changing out my inverter.

I can fix the link problem.

Sequoia 464 the price has dropped significantly since I purchased mine. The 2000w inverter charger is the same physical size as the 3000w so mainly the weight and output are different. The 80 amp bulk charge especially for lithium batteries is massive. I have my built in converter turnd off it dosen't do lithium batteries anyway. Mine is in a small area under the sink but noise is not an issue. Runs micro and Keurig in the morning flawlessly without having to run generator then solar refills batteries during the day.

@Robert H posted:

I think I have the same unit. It is very heavy. It has a large transformer that provides nice clean sine wave power.

The one thing I don't like about it is you have to turn it on to get shore power. I would prefer that was automatic.

It will run the air conditioner, but not long unless you have a huge battery bank.

I am looking at getting the Renogy 3000w unit this spring.  I was curious why the Renogy inverter needs to turned on to run shore power.  If you have a automatic transfer switch why the inverter has to be on to get shore power.  Maybe I am not understanding how most inverter setups are designed, but I thought it was not necessary.  Thanks

MarkV

@MarkandCynthia posted:

I am looking at getting the Renogy 3000w unit this spring.  I was curious why the Renogy inverter needs to turned on to run shore power.  If you have a automatic transfer switch why the inverter has to be on to get shore power.  Maybe I am not understanding how most inverter setups are designed, but I thought it was not necessary.  Thanks

MarkV

It depends on how its installed; if you have an automatic transfer switch it implies you are keeping your existing converter so you can still get 12v and charge the batteries. Basically the shore power line will go directly to your inverter/converter. That is tied into your 12v bus so it can charge the batteries. What you are saying is that the line would go into a transfer switch which would then either go to the inverter/converter, or to the old converter.

Before deciding you want to go that route, make sure Renogy doesn't have some way of setting it to "charge only". My Victron has a 3-way switch for On | Off | Charge Only. And even then, I keep it on 100% of the time because it's controlled via a remote switch / screen where I can set the software to enable or disable inverting. I did remove the converter that came with my trailer, the Victron is on duty; I have to think the Renogy should have similar functionality.

I bought a transfer switch from Progressive Industries which has terminal markings SHORE and GENERATOR. In my case, I would have hooked my transfer switch in the middle of the shore power circuit. Then, I would have connected the inverter output to the generator. With this, if powered into shore with your plug, everything is as it is now. If you were to power up your inverter when on shore, the transfer switch would drop shore power and you would be on inverter. That's the default.

I decided not to use a transfer switch at all, but recreated a shore power plug in my spare battery box. So when I boondock, I take my 30 amp shore power plug and plug it into my battery box plug, turn off the breaker on the on board converter (very important or you create a loop that drains your battery).

I have in the same battery box a 20 amp power input into my inverter. So if I need to say use the generator to charge my batteries, I can do that. I do this because my charge circuit in my inverter is superior to any onboard combined RV converter unit made. I can select my charge voltage and charge current levels. My low frequency inverter is set up as an UPS (uninterrupted power supply)

@MarkandCynthia posted:

I am looking at getting the Renogy 3000w unit this spring.  I was curious why the Renogy inverter needs to turned on to run shore power.  If you have a automatic transfer switch why the inverter has to be on to get shore power.  Maybe I am not understanding how most inverter setups are designed, but I thought it was not necessary.  Thanks

MarkV

Mark, I had a 2000 watt Renogy - just an inverter, no charger - the only wiring connection from it was AC wiring going into my stand alone PD ATS. I did not need the unit turned on with shore power.

I replaced that setup recently with a Kisae 2000 watt inverter/charger with a built in ATS. Wiring is different now of course with an AC line to and from the unit. The Kisae automatically powers up when I'm on shore power, I'm figuring that it needs to monitor the juice running through and turn on/off fans as necessary.

I was expecting a simple pass through, but I can see why the unit needs to be on.

@Myl posted:

It depends on how its installed; if you have an automatic transfer switch it implies you are keeping your existing converter so you can still get 12v and charge the batteries. Basically the shore power line will go directly to your inverter/converter. That is tied into your 12v bus so it can charge the batteries. What you are saying is that the line would go into a transfer switch which would then either go to the inverter/converter, or to the old converter.

Before deciding you want to go that route, make sure Renogy doesn't have some way of setting it to "charge only". My Victron has a 3-way switch for On | Off | Charge Only. And even then, I keep it on 100% of the time because it's controlled via a remote switch / screen where I can set the software to enable or disable inverting. I did remove the converter that came with my trailer, the Victron is on duty; I have to think the Renogy should have similar functionality.

Thanks for the response and excellent comments on what I need to check on with Renogy.  The reason for choosing the Renogy inverter is I already have a Progressive Dynamics converter w Li Charging capability and wanted to keep using this unit if possible.  I also was wanting to save some $$ in choosing the Renogy inverter vs. the Victron Multiplus since I am not sure I would use all of the Multiplus functions.

My current system consists of 2BB LiPO4 batteries, which I plan to expand to 4BB, Victron 100/30 Victron SC along with Victron Battery monitor. 

Here is a link to the Renogy 3000w Inverter.

Renogy 3000 w Inverter

Dan as you mentioned I guess it depends on how everything is connected.  Based on the YouTube videos I have watched, the Auto Transfer Switch would do what you mention above.

Hoping to remove our RV cover next week to begin doing spring de-winterizng and starting to look at how to begin my inverter setup.

Thanks

@Marky Mark posted:

I bought a transfer switch from Progressive Industries which has terminal markings SHORE and GENERATOR. In my case, I would have hooked my transfer switch in the middle of the shore power circuit. Then, I would have connected the inverter output to the generator. With this, if powered into shore with your plug, everything is as it is now. If you were to power up your inverter when on shore, the transfer switch would drop shore power and you would be on inverter. That's the default.

I decided not to use a transfer switch at all, but recreated a shore power plug in my spare battery box. So when I boondock, I take my 30 amp shore power plug and plug it into my battery box plug, turn off the breaker on the on board converter (very important or you create a loop that drains your battery).

I have in the same battery box a 20 amp power input into my inverter. So if I need to say use the generator to charge my batteries, I can do that. I do this because my charge circuit in my inverter is superior to any onboard combined RV converter unit made. I can select my charge voltage and charge current levels. My low frequency inverter is set up as an UPS (uninterrupted power supply)

Thanks Dean.  What I am thinking at this time is running the 120 AC line from the Renogy Inverter to the Progessive Dynamics converter, at the same location as my current shore power connection is going to.  That's is what I am currently thinking, but it could change.

Mark V

@sequoia464 posted:

Mark, I had a 2000 watt Renogy - just an inverter, no charger - the only wiring connection from it was AC wiring going into my stand alone PD ATS. I did not need the unit turned on with shore power.

I replaced that setup recently with a Kisae 2000 watt inverter/charger with a built in ATS. Wiring is different now of course with an AC line to and from the unit. The Kisae automatically powers up when I'm on shore power, I'm figuring that it needs to monitor the juice running through and turn on/off fans as necessary.

I was expecting a simple pass through, but I can see why the unit needs to be on.

Ron, I was anticipating wiring the Renogy unit like you mentioned in the first paragraph.  I do have to contact Renogy for some additional questions based on some above comments.

Thanks

Mark V.

In my 1995I did a simple Renogy 2000 installation. I wanted to run my microwave and a second outlet under the TV for my SpringAir mattress pump and miscellaneous other items. I did not want to mess with a transfer switch etc. I am pleased with the Renogy, just make sure you buy one with a remote control switch.

I installed the inverter in the pass thru, vertically on the rear bulkhead. I had Windy Nations make up the cables, includig a 12" one from the positive batery termonal to the fuse. My batteries are on the tongue.I wired heavy cables from the battery to the inverter. Then I cut the female end off of heavy extension cord. I installed a new receptacle next to the existing microwave receptacle. I ran the cut off cord end from the inverter, below thhe trailer in looming, up along the refrigerator , behind the microwave and to the new receptacle.

When I boondock, I simply unplug the microwave and plug iit into the adjacent inverter outlet. I wired a second receptacle below TV.

I istalled the remote swiitch below the water pump switch panel and ran the wires and plugged it into the inverter.

Secured the loom protected wire under the trailer

. System works perfectly, inexpensive and fewer parts to fail.

DO NO FORGET A 12V FUSE NEAR THE BATTERY.

pm any questions, good luck

Also the inverer in the pass thru gives a convenient exterior outlet