Same battery we use, Red. So far so good. Seemed like the best choice for our usage. Hope it works out. 

-b

Good to know Brian.  

Either one - the Trojan 30XHS & the Trojan SCS225 (which Bruce H. has and is very happy with) - are AH monsters and a great choice for a single 12-volt battery situation.  As explained to me, this one seemed to make slightly more sense for an RV battery for our use - dry camping anywhere from 3 to 20 nights at a time.

Great price on a very good battery.  Trojan makes high quality batteries.

Nice battery Jeff.  I got a real charge out of reading your write up......

Thanks Erick.  

And it's a good thing you're not a "gopher".

Great price Jeff ....I'm shocked....!

Great battery at an incredible price!  Well done.

Bruce

Thanks Bruce.

You (once again) steered me in the right direction.  

130 AH AND it fits in a group 27 battery box (which fits in/on the stock battery tray) - enough said!

Yep. Only adds ~15# to the tongue, but substantially more Ah over a stock group 27, and rated to 600 charge/discharge cycles at 50% DoD to boot. As a single 12v battery solution, they're hard to beat.

And for me it's an even smaller weight addition - only 4.8 lbs. heavier than my Interstate group 29 (101 AH) and only 20.6 lbs. heavier than my Interstate group 24 (81 AH).  *Group 29 for dry camping.  Group 24 for hook-up camping such as rally's/rallies.

Trojan really packs in those AH!   

We recently returned from a 3-week trip. On 2 separate occasions we went 5 nights without charging up the battery with the generator.  Both times we could have easily gotten another night out of the battery as the water pump hadn't yet started to cause the lights to flicker or cause the stereo to pause a dvd while watching a movie (both good indicators that a battery is getting low).  

Great to hear.  I almost went with Trojan T105  6 volts.  Now that I know they fit in my battery tray despite what the tape measure says probably will next time.......

I'm impressed that it fits in the group 29 boxes. I may upgrade when my Grp 29s die.

It's a great battery Kent.  I am extremely happy with it.   

And it actually fits in a group 27 box (which fits in the TT's stock battery tray with no modifications) -
http://www.attwoodmarine.com/s...y-Box-Power-Guard-27

Good timing that this thread popped up today.

Regardless of the last time that we camped I have always (16+ years) charged my trailer batteries every 3 months.  Today being the closest Sat. to 9/30 it was charge day.

I have this battery as well as an older/wimpier group 29 Interstate & an even wimpier group 24 Interstate.

With this battery we last camped 5.5 weeks ago (with Mr. & Mrs. Big E in fact!) and after that dry camping trip I charged this battery up before storing it in the garage.

So, 5.5 weeks ago it was at 12.75 volts.  30 minutes ago when I checked it before charging it (at the 2 amp setting) it was at 12.74 volts (nice!).

It's done and ready to unhook.

*Here is my "Battery maintenance - what works for me" thread -
https://community.lanceowners.org/top...ce-what-works-for-me

Curious, how do you all get a high enough equalize charge (the 30XHS requires 16.2V for EQ)? 

I would love to go with 2 of those if they fit or 2 T105's but the Lance PD-4500 won't provide the proper EQ charge...

Red Barchetta posted:

Picked up one of these today -
http://www.trojanbattery.com/product/30xhs/

With our 1575 and the way that we load it (tongue-mounted bike rack with 3 bikes & 7.5 gallon/30 lb. LP tank) we run with a single battery on the tongue.
*We dry camp and have solar &/or generator's depending upon the trip so a single battery has worked well for us for almost 16 years now.

Through my work I accrue points towards purchases at certain places.
One of them being Battery Systems (where I only had 4 days left to "use it or lose it") -
https://www.batterysystems.net/
So I headed down to the local store and after a long conversation with the manager I decided to go with the Trojan 30XHS over the Trojan SCS225.  Same AH (130) & same listed weight (66 lbs.).  Same price as well ($200.00 neighborhood).
With my discount I was out of there for $81.86.

I already had 3 Interstate batteries - 1 puny group 24 (81 AH) that came with the 1575 (this I only use for the rare time that we go somewhere with electrical hook-up's as a battery isn't needed then except for the trailer's emergency brakes break-away system) & 2 group 29's (101 AH each) that we've had for 4 years from our previous trailer and are still rock solid.
*I gave a neighbor/friend one of the group 29's as he just bought a TT (not a Lance) and only had a group 24 that came with it.  He insisted on a form of payment so I gained a case of Sierra Nevada Pale Ale.
For now, I still have 3 batteries, but as the 2 Interstate batteries - group 24 & group 29 - fade out in the next few years I will eventually just go with this 130 AH Trojan beast.

A few thoughts/observations -
- It fits in a group 27 battery box(!) which works well with my Attwood group 27 "Power Guard" battery box that is tapered to accommodate my angled B&D 12-volt RV Battery Lock.
http://www.attwoodmarine.com/s...y-Box-Power-Guard-27
http://www.b-drvbatterylock.com/balocl.html
- The true weight in a plastic group 27 battery box is 70.2 lbs.
- It arrived to me holding 12.75 volts (this is direct from the assembly line.  The store did not charge it up.).
- A slight adjustment to the flattened copper pipe and my Victron battery monitor shunt fits nicely.
- It is stamped "G6" which is for July 2016.  Trojan stamps them 6 weeks ahead and the store received this particular battery last Th. (6/2/16).

I will update this thread as the battery gets some camping use.

Here are 6 pictures as well as 2 screenshots of charts from the data sheet with good info.:

A good choice!  Is the 66-70 lb weight ever an issue being too much for one person to handle alone?

The SCS225 battery is more of a marine battery, meaning it is designed to deliver high amps.

Do you know how your 30xhs bulk, float, and equalize voltages compare to what your converter/charger puts out, or your solar charger if you have one?

Red Barchetta posted:

Picked up one of these today -
http://www.trojanbattery.com/product/30xhs/

With our 1575 and the way that we load it (tongue-mounted bike rack with 3 bikes & 7.5 gallon/30 lb. LP tank) we run with a single battery on the tongue.
*We dry camp and have solar &/or generator's depending upon the trip so a single battery has worked well for us for almost 16 years now.

Through my work I accrue points towards purchases at certain places.
One of them being Battery Systems (where I only had 4 days left to "use it or lose it") -
https://www.batterysystems.net/
So I headed down to the local store and after a long conversation with the manager I decided to go with the Trojan 30XHS over the Trojan SCS225.  Same AH (130) & same listed weight (66 lbs.).  Same price as well ($200.00 neighborhood).
With my discount I was out of there for $81.86.

I already had 3 Interstate batteries - 1 puny group 24 (81 AH) that came with the 1575 (this I only use for the rare time that we go somewhere with electrical hook-up's as a battery isn't needed then except for the trailer's emergency brakes break-away system) & 2 group 29's (101 AH each) that we've had for 4 years from our previous trailer and are still rock solid.
*I gave a neighbor/friend one of the group 29's as he just bought a TT (not a Lance) and only had a group 24 that came with it.  He insisted on a form of payment so I gained a case of Sierra Nevada Pale Ale.
For now, I still have 3 batteries, but as the 2 Interstate batteries - group 24 & group 29 - fade out in the next few years I will eventually just go with this 130 AH Trojan beast.

A few thoughts/observations -
- It fits in a group 27 battery box(!) which works well with my Attwood group 27 "Power Guard" battery box that is tapered to accommodate my angled B&D 12-volt RV Battery Lock.
http://www.attwoodmarine.com/s...y-Box-Power-Guard-27
http://www.b-drvbatterylock.com/balocl.html
- The true weight in a plastic group 27 battery box is 70.2 lbs.
- It arrived to me holding 12.75 volts (this is direct from the assembly line.  The store did not charge it up.).
- A slight adjustment to the flattened copper pipe and my Victron battery monitor shunt fits nicely.
- It is stamped "G6" which is for July 2016.  Trojan stamps them 6 weeks ahead and the store received this particular battery last Th. (6/2/16).

I will update this thread as the battery gets some camping use.

Here are 6 pictures as well as 2 screenshots of charts from the data sheet with good info.:

Red, I am in the process of buying the same battery and a battery box.  According to specs, t

he atwood box you use is about 1/10 of an inch shorter in length than this battery, so I was going to buy a larger box, that has a bit too much extra room, and I am concerned it might not fit in the 1575 mounting area due to more width (I dont have my trailer yet so cant measure it).  

Is it a very tight fit lengthwise, perhaps a concern, or perhaps limiting tthe necessary ventilation?

Red Barchetta posted:

Thanks Bruce.

You (once again) steered me in the right direction.  

130 AH AND it fits in a group 27 battery box (which fits in/on the stock battery tray) - enough said!

Which manufacturers group 27 battery box are you using Red?

The ones I have looked at are not quite tall enough for the 30XHS

whistler posted:

R W Peek

This box -
http://www.attwoodmarine.com/s...y-Box-Power-Guard-27

With this lockable bracket -
http://www.b-drvbatterylock.com/balocl.html

Curahee posted:

Curious, how do you all get a high enough equalize charge (the 30XHS requires 16.2V for EQ)? 

I would love to go with 2 of those if they fit or 2 T105's but the Lance PD-4500 won't provide the proper EQ charge...

Cris and Krista, the question about equalozing is a good one.  I am not an expert, but I do think Imhave a good answer.

Of course, the Lance supplied charge controller does not provide an equalizing charge comparible with this Trajan battery.  And batteries are all,different in terms or bulk, float and equalize charge requirements.  So no matter what battery you have, it most likely is not truly compatible with the charge controller.

The equalize charge is a special case on 12 flooded cell and agm batteries because is is so high.  Lance connects the charge conroller to the battery and all the traoler 12 volt systems.  We dont want the correct battery equalize charge applied by the charge controller, because, using this example, 16.2 volts is likely to damage some 12 volt loads, maybe the fridge, etc.

In my case, my plan is to use a programmable solar controller in conjunction with a 100 watt portable solar panel to both charge and equalize, equalizing only when disconnected from the domestic (trailer) system.   In fact, when plugged into 120vac, I possibly will always keep the battery disconnected, so, the battery only sees the correct bulk,float, and charge parameters.

I am waiting for my trailer delivery, so this is my plan...

We use the factory solar controller and/or the factory PD-4050 controller for normal charging, and a Vector 1089A digital battery charger for equalization. Peak voltage in that mode is 16.2, temperature compensated.

Red Barchetta posted:

whistler posted:

R W Peek

This box -
http://www.attwoodmarine.com/s...y-Box-Power-Guard-27

With this lockable bracket -
http://www.b-drvbatterylock.com/balocl.html

Attwood powerguard 27 box inside dimensions: 

13 7/8 x 7 1/4 x 10 1/2  =

13.875 x 7.25 x 10 .5

Trojan 30XHS dimensions:

13.94 x 6.75 x 10.09

According to specs it doent fit lengthwise!  Does it indeed slide in and out without a problem?

brianV posted:

We use the factory solar controller and/or the factory PD-4050 controller for normal charging, and a Vector 1089A digital battery charger for equalization. Peak voltage in that mode is 16.2, temperature compensated.

Brian, when you equalize, do you disconnect the battery and Vector charger from the trailer electrical system to prevent the loads and charge controller from seeing 16.2 volts?

Yes. Sorry for the long delay - Happy Holidays, btw - but I equalize with the battery isolated. No solar, no trailer loads.

I had to change the stock battery disconnect to achieve that.

Hey Red..

How is the 30XHS working out.. I have a 1985 and like the weight savings over (2) 6 volt batteries.. I occasionally do an overnighter at Cracker Barrell but usually am hooked up at a State Park, etc. 

Thanks, Joe

Joe -

Love it!  

We recently dry camped for 3 nights and I didn't bother bringing the portable solar or generator.  No problem.  I bet we could have gone another 2 nights.

We have another 2-night trip coming up and the solar & generator will once again stay home.

You will not be disappointed if you purchase one.

Thanks.. looks like I'll get the same box you got too..

Joe

You'll be happy with the Attwood (not to be confused with Atwood who makes our stoves, etc...) group 27 box as well.

It holds group 27, 29, & 30 batteries as well as goes perfectly with the B&D lock.

brianV posted:

Yes. Sorry for the long delay - Happy Holidays, btw - but I equalize with the battery isolated. No solar, no trailer loads.

I had to change the stock battery disconnect to achieve that.

 

Why did you need to change the stock battery disconnect switch to isolate the battery?   Doesnt the stock disconnect switch (in my case on a 1575) isolate the battery?

whistler posted:

brianV posted:

Yes. Sorry for the long delay - Happy Holidays, btw - but I equalize with the battery isolated. No solar, no trailer loads.

I had to change the stock battery disconnect to achieve that.

 

Why did you need to change the stock battery disconnect switch to isolate the battery?   Doesnt the stock disconnect switch (in my case on a 1575) isolate the battery?

Good question and I'm curious to hear the answer too.

Jeff.. 

I'm stealing your ideas for 30XHS and box.. Did you do anything with the vent holes on top of the box?.. Also, did you install any drain holes in the bottom?

Thanks Again, Joe

^^^  Joe, I too stole the suggestion of that Trojan battery for my 1475. The NOCO HM318BKS box I chose (same as BrianV as confirmed with him) fills up that box completely while not having porous vent holes on top to collect water.

Joe -

You won't be sorry that you got this battery.  

I do have holes in the bottom of my box, but don't have time to post pictures.  Also, I store my battery & box in the garage between trips so there's another reason why holes on the top aren't much of an issue for me.

If I were you I would get the box that DD J has (& posted above) as it doesn't have holes in the lid & looks like it works with the B&D lock.  Nice find DD J!  

Hi Red, I've been reading through your thread re: the Trojan 30XHS battery set-up on your 1575. Thank you so much for such a thorough write-up, and I'm certain this is the route I will go with my 1575. I have one question which is probably pretty dumb; in the picture showing your Victron shunt attached to the battery - is it permanently installed there? Not being familiar with the battery box and actual size of the shunt, just can't tell if there is enough space once you put the lid on the battery box on. 

Also, I've read other threads where people run wires/cabling for the monitor from outside, to inside the trailer and mount the monitor inside. Did you do this? Or, do you just periodically run checks from a connection outside the trailer?   If the former, would you mind sharing with me where you ran the connections for a 1575 specific installation? 

I'd also be grateful for any updates or lessons learned you might have in the last year+ since you started using the Trojan. 

Thanks a bunch. 

Hi Laura,

Sorry I missed this.  Been busy with fires in our area.  Evacuated with the trailer one night - dry camped in my sister-in-law's driveway & the battery was still at 96% in the morning with a lot of furnace & water pump use.  Been on high alert ever since ready to roll.  Driving back home brought the battery back to 100% & it is now plugged in to the house remaining fully charged.

Just taking a rare rest this week and got on LOA.  This will be short, but ask away for expanded answers & I'll reply deeper in a day or 2.

The battery is fantastic and packed with AH's!

It fits in a group 27 battery box.

I store our trailer without the battery & LP tank.  I store those in the garage between trips.

I have a Victron battery monitor.  You can find a link to it in my signature thread.

The shunt I install before a trip along with the battery.  It fits in the battery box with no issues.  The battery box lock keeps it all safe.

My Victron display I chose to mount inside the under-the-bed front storage area.  I am out there a lot while camping and I didn't want another display inside the living area of the trailer.  Again, Victron thread is in my signature thread.

If you want the same battery box & lock that I have check out the battery lock thread in my signature.

Here are 2 pictures that I just took.  Battery & shunt in the box locked up.  All we have to do is unplug the trailer & we can be rolling.

*Even though I wiped it off before the picture there is still ash on the box.

Jim, thanks for your reply. I'm sorry to hear about your evacuation situation, but it sounds like things are working out ok for you. My brother was on evacuation Alert for the McCourtney fire and Lobo Fire near Grass Valley, but those passed him by. Two years ago a fire came to about a 1/2 from his house. The West is a mess this year. 

You're installation of the Victron was just what I was looking for. Your 1575 tips are fantastic for the rest of us 1575 owners. 

What do you do to totally isolate the battery w/o disconnecting the cables? I ask because the switch at the front just disconnects the one side I believe.

Thanks in Advacne,

Louisb