Smarter Tools 2000iQ Generator

Woodglue:

When you ran the air conditioner, did you have to throw all breakers other than the main and air conditioner circuits?

No Doug,

I just plugged in and started up.  That's a good idea though, to throw all the breakers except for the A/C if I really needed A/C or the microwave.

When using the generator for the air conditioner:

FIRST, Turn your fridge from Automatic to LP.   You're camping off circuit, but IF you don't do this, when the generator starts, it will think it's plugged into the wall socket and switch back to AC (from the generator) That's 3 amps of relief the generator doesn't have to provide.

SECOND throw the blue breakers shown below.

   MAIN  -                            30 amps  (This has to stay on)

1 GENERAL PURPOSE         15 amps   (these are your receptacles. Leave them on so your laptop will have power from the generator, unless you are running it from 12 volts. It doesn't take that much.  At last resort, turn these off.)

2 AIR CONDITIONER             20 amps  (Leave on.)

3 MICROWAVE                 15 amps  

4 CONVERTER                     15 amps  (this is taking your 'onboard battery charger' out of the circuit.  For the time you have this switched, you are running just on batteries and the converter charger isn't replacing amps in your batteries.  Once the AC has been shut off, if you reactivate this breaker, the generator will then start charging your batteries. 

5 WATER HEATER (electric)   15 amps (this is probably not on, but it's a sure killer if it is.  Sucks lots of generator amps.)

Woodglue, Doug's suggestions are good ones.  I bought a second 2000iQ because (1) it gives me redundancy, (2) 2 are needed to run my A/C especially when I boondock at higher altitude, (3) 2 are needed to run my microwave above 6000-7000 ft, and (4) if nothing else, it's a $600 1 gal gas can!

Brian

Good point, Brian.   Woodglue would only need one for most 120 volt times, but if it comes to needing the air conditioner, plug in both.

I'm home now and I'm going to try Doug's trick before I take the trailer back to storage!  I have a feeling it will work!!

Brian, I'm going to consider your and Randy's suggestion about perhaps buying a secondary unit.  I'm all about redundancy - it's a good  thing to practice!

WoodGlue

WoodGlue, it's worked out well for me, even though I hated to shell out another $600.  However, I didn't have much choice because it's too difficult to handle/carry a 3000-4000W single generator, which is more than I need most of the time (except for A/C and high-altitude microwave running).

Brian

OK, thanks to all of my "Friends" here on LOA helping me spend my money, I just came home from Costco with one of these!!   And I have a surprising report to make.  It runs my 13.5 BTU A/C in my driveway, about 2600' elevation!!!  Didn't even struggle.  I'm sure the result will be different at higher altitudes, but for now I'm happily surprised....

Randy, I'm guessing the EF2000is cover is the right one???

Never mind, figured it out.......

Erick, I just received my covers Friday. Installed them Saturday and they are a real tight fit. But they do fit and fit well once you've worked them down over the Gen.

BigE, that's great that only one 2000iQ will run your A/C at 2600'!  However, as you point out, altitude will impact it.  While the specifics depend on engine type (2 cycle vs 4 cycle) and carburated vs fuel injected, a rough figure is about 3% power loss per 1000 ft elevation from sea level.  It isn't exactly linear at lower altitudes, but when you get up to 6000-7000 ft, it is very noticeable.  For example, my 2000iQ runs my 900W microwave (that's output in the microwave; the input power is actually 1200W) just great at home at 2300'.  At 7000', where the generator output loss would be around 21% or a steady-state output of about 1400W, it will run the microwave but not at its full rating, as indicated by the longer cooking time.  I didn't have time to hook up and parallel my second 2000iQ the last trip, but will test it next time.

Brian

I use 87 from the gas station.  No sense of using 89 or 92

Just regular old gas will work just fine!

WoodGlue

I just read the owners manual today, they state 10% or less ethanol......

The problem with using ethanol enriched fuel in small engines is the fuel does not cycle through like it does in a motor vehicle. That fuel can sit in any small engine for months, and some are designed with alcohol proof hoses and tubing and some are not. The biggest problem with the ethanol enriched fuel is phase separation, where the alcohol breaks down and attracts water vapor and moisture, and you end up with a slug of water on the bottom of the tank, carburetor, fuel lines, etc., and pure gas sitting on top of that. On any small engine you're better off using non-ethanol fuel at 87 octane -- or -- using an enzyme-type fuel conditioner that prevents the phase separation. The non-ethanol fuel costs more, but by the time you add the enzyme you're at about the same cost. There are a lot of fuel stabilizers on the market, and most do not prevent phase separation. The two most popular that do are Stabil Marine Formula (blue/green color, not the red), or Starbrite. You can find them at Walmart, most every marine or boating store, and a lot of the auto parts stores. Other than these two you need to read the label carefully to verify that it does stabilize and prevent separation. I use both of these treatments in every small gas engine around the house--lawn mowers, snow blowers, weed trimmers, my Gator UTV, small Smart Tools generator, my big Generac house generator, chainsaw, Mercury and Yamaha outboard motor--everything other than the cars. Mid or premium grade fuel will not help, though a few distributors supply ethanol free only in 90 or 93 octane. The higher octane actually has less energy but does prevent detonation (knocking). 

Whoops!  Did I give out bad information??

I run my Honda on premium, always have even though the manual says you can use 87. Its only a gallon and if were going on a long trip and towing the Jeep I'll fill it with the same and siphon gas to fill the genny if needed. Run premium in the motorcycles too.

I run non ethanol regular fuel & treat w starbright as needed. I also try not to carry fuel over in the genny for extended periods (more then 3-4months) & always run the carb dry.

No, not bad info. My manual says the same thing, so the fuel lines are designed to use ethanol fuel. These generators don't use a lot of fuel, so there is a good chance that without an additive you can have the separation--or use 100% gas. Cars go thru a tank in a week, that fuel may be in a generator for months. The only benefit for using a higher octane fuel than an engine is designed for is you're donating extra profit to the refiner/distributor/dealer. Every manual for every motor has the designated fuel octane requirements listed and there is absolutely nothing to be gained from exceeding that.

Log on to this web site listed below to find your state listed at the bottom of the page.  

It will list suppliers of non-ethanol fuel.  

Sometimes suppliers quit handling non-ethanol so call ahead.

http://pure-gas.org/