Torklift Lower StableLoads on a 2009 Chevy Silverado 1500 towing a Lance 1575

Jeff, excellent write up.  I look forward to hearing the results from your upcoming trip.  I will also add, I really wish the holes were already there on my overload springs.  The kit came with 4 drill bits.  It took 3 of them to get the holes drilled........

Big E posted:

Jeff, excellent write up.  I look forward to hearing the results from your upcoming trip.  I will also add, I really wish the holes were already there on my overload springs.  The kit came with 4 drill bits.  It took 3 of them to get the holes drilled........

Thanks Erick!  
The trip is in 10 days.  I will definitely be giving these a solid test & a thorough review.

All -
Erick is referring above to springs that don't have factory stops (& holes) on the ends of the springs.  Torklift has a kit for that.  However, it sounds like drilling the holes isn't as quick and easy as Torklift makes it sound.

Here is the kit -
StableLoad Quick Disconnect (Lower Overload) Part #A7311 (With drill kit) -
http://www.torklift.com/index....stableload#drilltool

Jeff, excellent write up and thanks for the photos.

After looking at the two vids you posted regarding drilling the overload spring, I went out and checked what was underneath the Tundra. It will be interesting to see how they have engineered the kit for this truck as the overload spring rides against the main spring pack when the truck is in an unloaded state. Also, that overload spring is 5/8" thick! I guess I'll just have to wait and see what arrives.

Here's a photo of my spring pack
 

Thanks Randy.

I don't think the fact that yours are tight with no load is an issue as you need to lift the rear end a bit (with a floor jack, curb, TT's tongue jack, ...) to engage & disengage the StableLoads before & after towing anyway.  Though you might find when installing the first StableLoad that just 2 (or 1) wedges is better for your truck.

However, the bracket does seem like an issue - not only because of its location, but also if it is wrapped around all of the springs.  I'm sure Torklift will have a solution for that though since they ask so many detailed questions and request pictures of your truck & springs before ordering.

Jeff, the overload spring is the one with the tapered ends and is not inside the spring bracket. At least it appears to be the overload spring. Again, that leaf is super thick.

Yeah, I bet you'll need 6 spacer washers like I did.  *You get a supply of 32 for up to 8 per StableLoad.

Jeff,

I just increased my StableLoads from 2 fingers to three. I haven't towed with the new setup yet.

I do use some spray on white Lithium grease on the StableLoads, as mine developed a squeak from the metal on metal contact. 

They are really easy to engage and dis-engage while hooking up and unhooking the trailer. The back of the truck is lifted by the tongue jack while setting the spring bars on the Weight Distribution Hitch. I just go around the truck while it's raised and engage or release the StableLoads. It's part of my routine.

Lifting the truck won't be a problem for Randy. He has a pair of these combo jacks and stands. Yes Randy, you helped me spend more money, I bought them too.

Frank -

You have StableLoads?!  I'm surprised that Torklift didn't know that.  I (& they) thought that I was the first non-TC LOA'er to use them.

Awesome!    I am glad to hear about your results and tips.  I'm also glad to find that I'm following in your footsteps.  

So it sounds like you first tried 2 wedges and have now moved up to 3 (like I have).  What didn't you like about having just 2 wedges?

And I'm glad to know that I'm on the right track with planning to use the electric tongue jack while the coupler is clamped on to the ball to lift the rear of the truck a bit.

Torklift knows that I have them, as does Roger (Logboy). We were testers for them years ago. They didn't have a dealer network that knew how to install them back then. Sheryl knows about my install, and the dealer problems we had.

I am moving up to 3 fingers because I have a little more rear end drop than I should with just 2 blades installed. The original installer didn't really know what he was doing, and I knew even less, so he set me up with 2. I'm going to try 3 and see how I like it.

Frank -

Sorry to hear of your installer issue.  Especially now knowing that you could have handled it yourself with absolute ease.

I can tell all LOA'ers that this is a doable install (unless you need to drill your springs like Erick did then maybe not).

1.  Do all of the messing around with the first StableLoad (SL) in figuring out how many spacer washers to use for your spring thickness, which side of the spring you want the SL mounted/hinged on, which of the 3 small grouped holes you want to use for your spring width, etc...

2.  Then fully tighten the other 3 SL's in a comfortable place.  After that those 3 will install very fast.

170 mile test drive with no load and the StableLoads engaged -

We had to be down in the Oakland/Berkeley area yesterday so we took the truck as it was a perfect opportunity to drive the truck unloaded and the StableLoads engaged (Oakland has horrendous roads (especially the coliseum/arena/airport area)).
As I/we figured, the truck definitely rides stiffer.  It's not horrible, but you absolutely know when you're going over pot holes, speed bumps, etc...  Again not terrible, but also not the best ride so with engaging/disengaging the StableLoads taking only a mere few minutes there isn't any reason to keep them engaged full time.

The truck looked completely the same so I didn't bother to take pictures.

Here are a few measurements taken from the exact same flat/level parking spot -
- Unloaded, disengaged (stock):
1) Bottom of the draw bar assembly to the asphalt ground - 15 9/16"
2) Driver side "ceiling" of the interior wheel well to the top of the tire - 11 1/2"
3) Passenger side "ceiling" of the interior wheel well to the top of the tire - 11 1/2"

- Unloaded, engaged:
1) Bottom of the draw bar assembly to the asphalt ground - 15 7/8"
2) Driver side "ceiling" of the interior wheel well to the top of the tire - 11 13/16"
3) Passenger side "ceiling" of the interior wheel well to the top of the tire - 11 13/16"

Results no load, engaged:
As you can see from the measurements above, the rear end of our specific truck sits 5/16" higher with 3 wedges engaged.
The truck drove fine, just a bit stiff when going over bumps, etc...
If I had to I would drive the truck full time like this, but since there isn't any reason to I won't.

Next up - towing report in a week ...

I mounted my Stable-loads to swing on the outside of the springs, not the inside as shown in the pictures.  You can engage and disengage without reaching way under the truck.  On my truck, there is no interference swinging outward and are way easier to access.  I have had them mounted that way on my truck for many years.  At the time I received the Stable-Loads, the local dealer had no idea what they were and how to install them.

Bucky -

On our truck the StableLoads would be VERY close to each tire in that position.  A situation that I wasn't fond of having on my mind all of the time.  They would be especially extremely close disengaged which is the position that they will be in 85 - 90% of the time (unlike your TC which is probably loaded on the truck most of the time).

It truly takes less than 3 minutes to engage/disengage them from a squat so no worries here.

Also, since all but a single bolt can be removed with just 2 wrenches in a matter of minutes when they are disengaged having them on the inside makes them that much more out of sight.

Mine are mounted on the outside as well. I get a little chaffing on the guide tube for the emergency brake cable (driver side front), but no real wear.

Got home early today so I engaged the StableLoads, pulled out the trailer, and loaded the tongue area up with the usual stuff that we take (minus the battery lock which is 3 lbs.) - full 7.5 gallon/30 lb. LP tank (53 lbs.), group 30 Trojan battery (70.2 lbs.), & Arvika bike rack & 3 bikes (123.6 lbs.).  246.8 lbs. -

*Yes I know that the bike tires aren't strapped down and that the battery box lid isn't on.  

Went for a drive.  Just a bit too stiff & tongue high, but otherwise rock solid.  

So I removed a wedge from the rear StableLoads (the fronts still have 3 wedges) and went for another drive.  Bingo!  I think we have it!  The StableLoads have removed the minimal, but barely present sponginess and porpoising.  The ride is not stiff and the trailer is perfectly level.  I am very impressed with this product as far as our specific rig is concerned.   

Here are the wedges that I removed (& stored in the TV with the manual) -

Test drive to the cg on the coast in a few days ...

Forgot to mention -
I tried Frank's trick today and extended the tongue jack with the coupler clamped to the ball.  This easily raised the rear end of the truck enough to engage the StableLoads.  The entire process took 2 minutes.  

Now I have to see what my truck feels like with all three blades engaged

 I never thought about an asymmetric installation.

Frank 2285 posted:

I never thought about an asymmetric installation.

Frank -
It actually makes sense now that I have spent some time with this.

Below are 4 pictures - all of the passenger side rear tire.
Notice that the truck unloaded has a smaller gap behind the tire (picture #1) as opposed to the front of the tire (picture #2).
So having 2 wedges (1/2") behind the tire (picture #3) and 3 wedges (3/4") in front of the tire (picture #4) seems more natural for our TV/TT combo.

Fully loaded rig very curvy & hilly tow test with stop-and-go traffic as well as up to 65 mph sections -

Success!  The 3 wedges on the fronts & 2 wedges on the rears is the perfect combo. for our set-up.  

Drove from Santa Rosa, CA to Bodega Dunes cg in Bodega Bay, CA with absolutely no issues.  No sway (although we didn't have any to begin with), sponginess, or porpoising.  The TV & TT travel as a single unit in braking, stopping, accelerating, cruising, over bumps & pot holes, etc...

At Bodega Dunes cg (which has a dump station) I filled up the 25 gallon fresh water tank (I had already filled up the 6 gallon WH at home) and then drove the final way along Hwy. 1 to our destination - Wright's Beach cg (between Bodega Bay, CA & Jenner, CA).  With the extra 200+ lbs. of water near the center of the TT there wasn't much change.  Still a nice solid towing experience.

In our case this product gets a 5 out of 5.  I highly recommend it.  

Here are a few pictures.

Showing the fully-loaded TT sitting level with the StableLoads engaged.  Filling the fresh water tank.  And a few miscellaneous pictures of our site & the Pacific ocean.  *My wife had to work this week so she drove out in her Beetle to get to work & back.

Nice & level.   

Looks good Jeff. Mine are on their way.

Right on friend!  

I'm arranging for install this week and was wondering if you had done any measurement on the change of the hitch ball height before and after the final asymmetrical install?   I'm hoping for a 1/2" increase in the ball height as well as settling the front end a bit. 

Thanks for the detailed report!

HS -

Since our rig (1500 pulling a light 1575) was already level and I only needed to remove a small amount of bouncing/porpoising I never measured the top of the ball height.

Even with 3 & 3 wedges (the max) everything still sat & towed level.  The issue was that the ride was too stiff.  I went to 3 & 2 wedges and all is truly perfect.  3 & 2 wedges is the perfect amount of wedges to keep the springs exactly where they sit with no load on our truck.

If I were you I would get a new drawbar with a 1/2" taller rise for that issue.

The StableLoads aren't for raising the ball so much as they are to smooth out the towing ride.

Finally, if you are the least bit handy I would save your money to have someone do the installation as assembling the wedge packs can happen in the comfort of inside your home.  Install is really just installing a bolt & then tightening everything up.  Then, like me, if you decide to remove or add a wedge you aren't paying someone else again.

Here are the entire under-the-truck installation steps -

A bolt, the wedge pack, a washer, a locking washer, & a locking nut.

A final wrap-up -

Towed up and over Donner Pass (7,000+') today with the rig completely loaded (including our 5th wheel chest full of 3 cases of H2O, half a case of ale, generator, gas, etc....  Rock solid!  

For our truck and TT lower StableLoads are perfect!

Here are a few shots taken at the Gold Run rest area near Colfax, CA on I-80 (The Love's semi dwarfs our rig, ha) -

A final final wrap-up -

I have left them engaged/in place while we are unhitched for day trips.  Definitely a bit stiffer ride, but truly not too bad.

It would take less than 3 minutes to disengage all 4 StableLoads, but since the unloaded ride isn't that bad we are keeping them engaged between tows.

Great product!  

Just another check in -

Went on a trip last month and are on one now.  Yesterday had us on extremely curvy roads.  Rock solid peaceful towing.

Absolutely no complaints with this product.  A+.

Forgot to mention -

Last week's trip had us towing with a heavy truck bed (load of firewood, 1 case of SNPA, 2 cases of water, & a generator that I gave to my Dad who then put it in his SUV to take to his house) to the cg and then an empty truck bed home.

The rig towed exactly the same with the truck bed loaded and unloaded. 

Jeff,

After reading your write-up, I'll be installing the Stableloads as well. One question--do you have a WDH? (Well....two questions) And if so, did you have to change the ball position on the hitch?

Giles -

No WDH/sway control with our small/light properly loaded/balanced 1575.  Just the coupler on the ball.

I did not have to change the ball height.

The StableLoads when installed correctly keep the rear end at about the same height when there is nothing hitched up.

You are ALWAYS welcome to stop by and see my setup in person. 

If you have any questions fire away.

Does your truck already have the silly factory circular stops installed?  If so, you won't need to drill anything which is a huge win.

Here are 2 of the 4 stops that came with my truck -

Yeah, the stops are installed so it should be a piece of cake thanks to your in depth descriptions and pictures!

I fear I am going to have to go through and re-adjust the ball height. When I put the trailer on the ball it sags quite a bit. The WDH helps a bit and brings things level, but I think I'd like to see what effect these Stableloads will have. I'm open to readjusting the ball height if it eliminates the sag; if I can keep it level; and if it tows better (which will be wonderful--it tows nicely now but can get swishy over 65). 

I'd love to come by and see your setup. Thank you for the offer! You can PM me with time and place. 

PM sent. 

Text re-sent.