Tagged With "generator"

Thanks Dean. What I am thinking at this time is running the 120 AC line from the Renogy Inverter to the Progessive Dynamics converter, at the same location as my current shore power connection is going to. That's is what I am currently thinking, but it could change. Mark V

In my 1995I did a simple Renogy 2000 installation. I wanted to run my microwave and a second outlet under the TV for my SpringAir mattress pump and miscellaneous other items. I did not want to mess with a transfer switch etc. I am pleased with the Renogy, just make sure you buy one with a remote control switch. I installed the inverter in the pass thru, vertically on the rear bulkhead. I had Windy Nations make up the cables, includig a 12" one from the positive batery termonal to the fuse.

Thanks for the response and excellent comments on what I need to check on with Renogy. The reason for choosing the Renogy inverter is I already have a Progressive Dynamics converter w Li Charging capability and wanted to keep using this unit if possible. I also was wanting to save some $$ in choosing the Renogy inverter vs. the Victron Multiplus since I am not sure I would use all of the Multiplus functions. My current system consists of 2BB LiPO4 batteries, which I plan to expand to 4BB,...

Size you nain semi conductor DC fuses for your largest single use. If not the AC, then microwave, toaster, coffee maker, hair dryer etc.Using a semi conductor DC fuse means it clears based on current rise time, not current alone. That's why they are so expensive. Think of them as safety devices. I have 150 amp Eaton Amptrap fuses (2 because I doubled up my cables and havev2 main disconnects as well) which can handle the AC, my single largest load. Stay safe!

This is pretty close to what I was thinking my install would look like. My two BB batteries are already under the bed, and I was going to add two additional BB batteries, Renogy Inverter (with Bluetooth), and Lynx Distributor. My AC cable from the Renogy Inverter will exit out the under-bed storage area through the pass through, then down under following the chassis, and then upwards through the floor opening to the ATS switch and breaker panel. Like you I was thinking of adding the ATS...

I have bought two, but they are pretty cheap, and is something I should do for "just in case". I have 300Amp fuses, unless I should consider 150 AMP. Thanks

You should consider individually fusing those batteries. https://www.amazon.com/Battery...3171923089&psc=1

I was sizing my DC fuses in case I want to use the AC, which does have soft-start attached. What I see us using most often are the Microwave and our toaster. Our Norcold gas frig was working well at the end of last year, so hopefully we will not be needing to switch to an electric compressor right now. I also have to admit I think part of the reason I want to install the Inverter is partly to say I have accomplished the installation and it does work. Mark V

Also the inverer in the pass thru gives a convenient exterior outlet

Initially our inverter was in pass thru, batteries were o tounge. Now upsized 2kw inverter and LFP batteries are under bed. The ATS is behind the breaker panel in the galley. The inverter is switched on via the remote by the door The Inverter feeds the ATS through a 12-3 SO cord running under the trailer alongside the frame. I like the painless auto transfer feeding all the 120 volt appliances. Of course the converter breaker must be off when on inverter. inverter in passthru 1500 watt...

It depends on how its installed; if you have an automatic transfer switch it implies you are keeping your existing converter so you can still get 12v and charge the batteries. Basically the shore power line will go directly to your inverter/converter. That is tied into your 12v bus so it can charge the batteries. What you are saying is that the line would go into a transfer switch which would then either go to the inverter/converter, or to the old converter. Before deciding you want to go...

I bought a transfer switch from Progressive Industries which has terminal markings SHORE and GENERATOR. In my case, I would have hooked my transfer switch in the middle of the shore power circuit. Then, I would have connected the inverter output to the generator. With this, if powered into shore with your plug, everything is as it is now. If you were to power up your inverter when on shore, the transfer switch would drop shore power and you would be on inverter. That's the default. I decided...

Mark, I had a 2000 watt Renogy - just an inverter, no charger - the only wiring connection from it was AC wiring going into my stand alone PD ATS. I did not need the unit turned on with shore power. I replaced that setup recently with a Kisae 2000 watt inverter/charger with a built in ATS. Wiring is different now of course with an AC line to and from the unit. The Kisae automatically powers up when I'm on shore power, I'm figuring that it needs to monitor the juice running through and turn...

Ron, I was anticipating wiring the Renogy unit like you mentioned in the first paragraph. I do have to contact Renogy for some additional questions based on some above comments. Thanks Mark V.

SO is 12AWG wire 3 conductor cable . The black jacketed extension cord.

These are the common cords you'll find. S cord = Service cord SJ = + Junior (thinner jacketing) SJO= + oil resistant jacket SJOO = + oil resistant inner and outer jacket SJOOW = + water resistant SJOOWT = + thermoset plastic --Or any combinations of this alphabet soup. To add to the confusion-- A 12-3 S-cord (a cord) has 2 conductors + an equipment grounding conductor. (white, black, green) A 12-3 Romex (a cable) has 3 conductors + an equipment grounding conductor.(white, black, red, bare or...

Thanks for the link. MarkV

I had no idea of these abbreviations for electrical wire. I have some existing AC wire I had used to wire electrical sockets in my basement but I am not at home to see the type it is. For AC wire which will run under the trailer chassis which would mean it could get wet, is there a specific type of AC wire to use in this situation? thanks Mark V

When I get back home I will check the type of wire I have on a spool. I believe it is solid copper wire but will need to verify. Thanks for the insight here. By the time I learn most of the important aspects of RV electrical system I may too old to camp anymore. Mark

https://www.centralwires.com/c...res-key-differences/ "THWN wire stands for Thermoplastic Heat and Water-resistant Nylon-coated wire. This wire type features thermoplastic insulation and a nylon coating. These materials provide excellent heat resistance and water protection. THWN wire is rated for wet environments and can handle temperatures up to 90 °C."

Hang in there, having worked in and around construction I have always been comfortable with all of the trades, including electrical. Comfortable and knowledgeable/proficient are two different things though, I have always had to research anything new, just to make sure I avoided the blue smoke. There has been so much information and help here at LOA to be thankful for as far as the trailer wiring has been concerned. Initially I was hesitant to just turn off the battery switch - I have gone...

This is the 10/3 SOOW that I used last time. WindyNation 25 Feet 10/3 10 AWG SOOW SO Cable Cord Wire - 10 Gauge 3 Conductor 600V Portable Power Extension Cord Cable for EV Chargers, Motor Leads, Portable Lights, and Battery Chargers: Amazon.com: Tools & Home Improvement I don't remember now why, but the SOOW that I have used in the past, from Home Depot, was preferable to the wire that I ordered from Amazon/Windy Nation. Something about the jacket being a pain to strip from the Amazon...

Yes, one. Of the SO types. They have stranded wire, unlike Romex which is solid. Home Depot and Lowe's have it on both large spools which are cut to length, as well as pre cut packages of various lengths.

Lowes sells it by the foot, 10% off with Veterans discount (I also bought the AIMS inverter there a couple years back). Chose it because it is stranded copper, durable jacket and cheaper than Marine wire which is what I normally use. When relocating to the under bed location I simply rerouted it and cut it back. Here's a cut sheet on SOOW.