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Question, rather than assessing how often you boondock camp, how often are you at a place where there are no hookups? Out west, many state parks are dry camping only. Also, do you have any solar? And thirdly, how cold do you call "cold weather camping"? Answers to those questions might better help assess your individual need as far as whether a Lithium battery would be a benefit.

I agree with Randy - how often are you going to be camping without shore power?  That’s the primary question to be answered when deciding between lead acid and lithium.

There’s another part of the equation when it comes to replacing a dead battery - why did the original battery die?  There are all sorts of reasons why batteries die and it would be helpful to know how yours died, before deciding what type of battery to buy.  I went back and saw that you are new owners of a 2020 1475, so you might not know how the previous owner treated the battery, and it’s very possible something they did (or did not do) might have caused the failure.  But there’s also reasons for batteries to die that may need to be addressed before/during the time you are changing batteries.

If money is no object, then lithium is a great way to go.  If you are going to need extra battery power, then lithium would be a good answer.  If weight is an issue, which it is with a 1475, then lithium could be the best choice (they are lighter per Ah compared to lead acid), even if your dry camping is going to be limited.

I just upgraded to lithium, and added an inverter/charger.  Very happy with the change and should have done it a year or two ago.

Lithium prices are starting to drop. This battery seems to be high quality, will last forever, is lightweight and most important, costs under 400 bucks. If I was starting anew, it would be on the "A" list.

https://www.amazon.com/LiFePO4...amp;ref_=as_li_ss_tl

Here's a good video from a respected youtuber who does this sort of thing for a living. He liked it a lot.

@R&V Spiker posted:

Lithium prices are starting to drop. This battery seems to be high quality, will last forever, is lightweight and most important, costs under 400 bucks. If I was starting anew, it would be on the "A" list.

https://www.amazon.com/LiFePO4...amp;ref_=as_li_ss_tl

Here's a good video from a respected youtuber who does this sort of thing for a living. He liked it a lot.

I clicked on the link above the video and it brought up an Amazon link claiming to sell this on sale at $33. (?!)  Then I realized it was for a 6AHr battery.  There were other sizes listed, but the highest was only 20AHr for $100.  Read the Amazon ad carefully.

One other issue is the Charger used.  The new WFCO's are switchable between LA (lead acid) and LI (lithium) and had to upgrade mine.  Lithium's charge at 14.6-14.8v versus 13.8.  I purchased two 100aH LiFePo4 for $310 each from Ali Express (Mr. Li's site). Received within 2 weeks. Included a LiFePo4 charger for each. Charges from 400w of solar. So far, so good.

Last edited by MPH-CA
@jimmuller posted:

I clicked on the link above the video and it brought up an Amazon link claiming to sell this on sale at $33. (?!)  Then I realized it was for a 6AHr battery.  There were other sizes listed, but the highest was only 20AHr for $100.  Read the Amazon ad carefully.

Interesting.  Just before I copied and pasted that Amazon link, I tested it and it came up with the 100 AH battery. That was on the laptop and they showed 17 in stock. Now, on my phone it comes up with the 6 amp battery. This isn't the first time this Amazon link for the 100 ah lithium has suddenly changed to the 6 ah battery for no rhyme or reason. A few hours ago, it was listed at $399.99.

And now the laptop is also linking to the 6ah battery.

EDIT, I was able to access the Amazon 100 ah page and it now shows as "Currently Unavailable". I guess the word is out regarding this battery.

Last edited by R&V Spiker

Regarding the original question, a qualified yes.

If a lighter, higher usable power, longer lasting and maintenance free battery is worth the price difference, then yes.

However,

Don’t forget the added cost of potentially upgrading a converter, lead-acid charger, solar charge controller and if not equipped, adding a battery monitoring system to track the AH usage and charging of the Lithium Batteries.  Unlike Lead Acid, a .1V change can represent 30% of battery depletion.

Also, don’t overlook security, now you have a lot more money in a tongue mount box or, as I found out, an easily defeated Lance locking trailer battery compartment.

A quick estimate for a simple upgrade not only included the cost of the Batteries but an additional $300+ in related upgrades.

We do dry camp and the benifits of weight, maintenance freedom and longevity are worth the investment.

Last edited by KR
@KR posted:

Regarding the original question, a qualified yes.

If a lighter, higher usable power, longer lasting and maintenance free battery is worth the price difference, then yes.

However,

Don’t forget the added cost of potentially upgrading a converter, lead-acid charger, solar charge controller and if not equipped, adding a battery monitoring system to track the AH usage and charging of the Lithium Batteries.  Unlike Lead Acid, a .1V change can represent 30% of battery depletion.

Also, don’t overlook security, now you have a lot more money in a tongue mount box or, as I found out, an easily defeated Lance locking trailer battery compartment.

A quick estimate for a simple upgrade not only included the cost of the Batteries but an additional $300+ in related upgrades.

We do dry camp and the benifits of weight, maintenance freedom and longevity are worth the investment.

Very true, Lithium batteries are still in the early adopter stage.  However, newer campers may have some of the right stuff installed.  Most solar controllers newer than 2018 will have a lithium setting.  If not, the setting for AGM will pretty much do the job.

The converter (120v -> battery) charger may have a lithium setting, but if not, the charger will charge a lithium up to 90%.  And, lithium batteries tolerate partial recharge without impact to battery longevity.

A battery monitor is not a must, but it sure is good to have.  I use a Victron battery monitor that displays on my phone to track the Amp-hours out at night, and back in during the daytime.  I watch the Amp-Hours, rather than voltage.

Victron makes a great battery monitor called a Smart Shunt, which costs $130.  It is simple to install, provided you don't mind using your smart phone to check on your batteries.

I figure I have bought the last batteries I will ever need.  Lithiums are good for 3000+ nights of camping.  And, I dropped 100 pounds from my camper removing the lead acid boat anchors.

I'm probably going to going to make the switch this winter or in the spring, as our nearly 5 year old RV/Marine batteries don't hold a charge as well as they used to. 

In all of the literature I have read for various batteries, it appears their BMS does protects batteries from charging or discharging when overheated, but they don't state that they protect them from charging when they are below 32F, when they apparently should not be charged.

Also, do they need ventilation to avoid overheating?  I am considering mounting a 200AH lithium battery underneath the bed of our 2285.   The compartment is fairly large, but we do store things underneath, which takes up part of the volume.  Should vents be added to the bed structure to allow heat to escape?

@Dale L. posted:

I'm probably going to going to make the switch this winter or in the spring, as our nearly 5 year old RV/Marine batteries don't hold a charge as well as they used to.

In all of the literature I have read for various batteries, it appears their BMS does protects batteries from charging or discharging when overheated, but they don't state that they protect them from charging when they are below 32F, when they apparently should not be charged.

Also, do they need ventilation to avoid overheating?  I am considering mounting a 200AH lithium battery underneath the bed of our 2285.   The compartment is fairly large, but we do store things underneath, which takes up part of the volume.  Should vents be added to the bed structure to allow heat to escape?

It depends. If you plan a battery box of expanded metal to keep stored items away, like a door screen protector, there should be plenty of air to help mitigate heating during charge cycles.

  • What rate the battery (batteries?) are charged at will influence the rate that heat is generated.
  • Don't pack items right next to the batteries.
  • If later you decide to add an inverter or an inverter/charger, ventilation will be required.
@Dale L. posted:

I'm probably going to going to make the switch this winter or in the spring, as our nearly 5 year old RV/Marine batteries don't hold a charge as well as they used to.

In all of the literature I have read for various batteries, it appears their BMS does protects batteries from charging or discharging when overheated, but they don't state that they protect them from charging when they are below 32F, when they apparently should not be charged.

Also, do they need ventilation to avoid overheating?  I am considering mounting a 200AH lithium battery underneath the bed of our 2285.   The compartment is fairly large, but we do store things underneath, which takes up part of the volume.  Should vents be added to the bed structure to allow heat to escape?

I'm not sure the batteries, need ventilation, but inverter definitely does.  Since most, install inverter, as close to battery, as practical, I would provide for vent.

I went ahead an ordered the 100ah shown in the video. Amazon kept showing the 20ah when I ordered but, the 100ah was delivered.  I’m doing a one for one exchange. So whenever the new battery box comes I’ll install the box, adjust the solar monitor and switch the power distribution system (correct name???.) to li.  LI battery is larger than the the old one but weighs 30lbs less.

@RobertMT posted:

I'm not sure the batteries, need ventilation, but inverter definitely does.  Since most, install inverter, as close to battery, as practical, I would provide for vent.

We have 2-100 amp LFP's under the bed. Charging with a 60 amp converter, the batteries get warm but not hot. I vented to bed box  and installed a 3 inch fan for the inverter. Protect the battery terminals and  other connection from shorting.

INVERTER AIR VENT 1invert filt covcooling exhaust fanINVERTER cooling fan control

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  • INVERTER AIR VENT 1
  • invert filt cov
  • cooling exhaust fan
  • INVERTER cooling fan control
@Toothvet posted:

Lithium all the way - I've never regretted the purchase.  I have regretted the purchase of the AGM batteries - weight and lack of usable capacity the main reasons. Final answer!  (for this year)  

@T&KP posted:
I’m really happy with the lithium battery. It’s less than half the weight of the old marine LA. Just a simple push of a button inside fuse box and it was ready to go.


Weight, weight, yes, yes! Just the weight saving alone is a terrific reason to go lithium.

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