@RobertMT posted:What would really be useful, if they had "zoned" heating. You could set main cabin "zone" to desired temperature and basement/belly "zone" to 38-40°. That way when you're running electric heater and tank area, gets cold, furnace kicks on, until that zone is satisfied.
I run electric wall heater off, thermostat set at desired temperature and furnace set couple degrees cooler. When I have power, electric heater, takes care of it, until about 28° outside temp and then furnace kicks on. This has been working to keep tanks plumbing warm enough. I tested it last year, down to single digits, (thanks Texas) with 1,000watt floor heater. This year, I upgraded to "cadet" 1,500watt wall furnace. I'm not sure, if more powerful heater, will allow furnace to run often enough. Hopefully I don't run into single digits, this year, to find out.
I've wanted to upgrade the Coleman Mk 1015k AC simply from a noise perspective. I'm finding this thread very informative too. Some form of ndq is in our future. Thanks Harriet @fpmtngal.
The thermostat in our 2285 is physically located in a different zone. It's through the hall and in the bedroom on the closet/vanity wall facing the bed or front of the trailer. 
When it's below 25F I want some heat to flow to the tanks We run an electric mica panel heater (no fan, all radiant) we move around the main room. Love the radiant heat this panel heater produces balanced with the furnace's convection heat. I can set the panel heater's thermostat low enough and aim it so the propane furnace kicks on when the bedroom temperature falls. I do have to play with the heat vents in the main room to find the balance.
@RobertMT Where are you currently? I've been watching the December future weather patterns and it looks likely the polar air will be coming south through the central part of the country in a few weeks. Seems likely to stay for a few weeks once it arrives so single digits are likely.
